MFW 2018
Spring/Summer CollectionPAUSE for a second. Before we drool over what’s showing in Paris, let’s do a quick recap on the best looks at Milan Fashion Week ;)
As @asliceofbambi ‘s starting point for Marni‘s #MFWSS18 collection, he started with the notion of a young woman on a skateboard who is stuck in the 20’s. Her life has been a “lucid accumulation of accidents,” and the way she dresses shows us that. She chops a 50’s cocktail dress into a top, opens up the seams and explodes the silhouette et voila – it has a drop waist. She embroiders tiny pink roses on an old white mink that belonged to her grandmother’s dressing gown, before she paints on her kitten heels. Get it? Think large proportions, and all that artsy sexy awkwardness. Sigh, Marni… Clothes that cool girls fawn over, before leaving the dull men in a daze.
Prada Stamping over a blank canvas, her pieces were screen-printed flat so that the creases showed – gleaming with that rough-and-ready analogue process that was done deliberately to take you back before digital smoothed out over that human touch. Feisty, DIY energy of the early 80’s was where they’re at. Big overcoats, pushed-up sleeves, oversized jackets and lopped-off slick plastic raincoats. These were the New Wave prints and shades.
Out with the bourgeois, and in with the serious. Go military with @prada ‘s #MFWSS18 collection, where she became “interested in someone who can be active and present, today.” She wants to change the world, “especially for women, because there’s so much against us, still.”
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Oh, Jeremy Scott… You’ve done it again. This #MFWSS18, Moschino broke boundaries with a collaboration that made the brand popular – to heights that the founder Franco could only dream of. Yes, it’s with @mylittlepony! Biker ballerinas strut down the runway, wearing leather jackets with DIY tees underneath, satin bustiers, tulle tutus, and all kinds of fishnet variations. When he packed the environmental activist’s punch same-time last year with the cardboard couture, Scott sees his role this year to become a bearer of light. “I have to stay super positive, because I Have to give that positivity to people.” Definitely didn’t fall short.
VERSACE Gianni Versace’s most iconic collections included: Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, and many more, coming out with print motifs that were remade and reinterpreted into blouses, square-shouldered jackets, leggings, catsuits, corsets, and more! Not to mention high-waisted jeans, and jeweled stiletto boots. Oh my, but there’s more - Naomi Campbell and her flank of femme fatales made a glamorous appearance in gold chain mail (yes, like that post that’s been going around on your feed)! Brilliantly, the designs stand through the tests of time. Which mega babe doesn’t want a tiny black crepe dress with gold embroidery snaking over her shoulders and hips?
Marking the 20th anniversary of the brutal murder of Gianni Versace in broad daylight in Miami Beach, Donatella Versace dug into the archives for key prints and pieces between 1991-1995, bringing it back this #MFWSS18 to celebrate “a genius… an icon… my brother,” and focus on his life and his feminist leanings, not his violent end.
@versace 
Gucci was dark, literally. “It’s more than beauty. It’s a state of mind. It’s an idea of community and a really deep expression,” Michele explained. Transpiring from his complex personality that’s developed throughout the works in Rome, it seems that he took upon the evidence of the people who have lived in the past, and their presence that stays beyond that, to his #MFWSS18 collections. Leather suits with musical notes, a jacket with pom-poms, purple-sequined pieces embellished with lime green snakes, and pink satin clown suit with swooping pagoda shoulders, all straight-up homages to Elton John. Or of the sweater emblazoned with Never Marry a Mitford, result of the recent relationship struck up with the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. There’s melancholy, dissonance, and noise all throughout.
