Salut, Paris! Kicking off with Yves Saint Laurent for our #PFWSS18 series, Anthony Vaccarello wanted to “tell the story of Saint Laurent of Paris—nothing more deeply than that,” with the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the background. Whilst our escapism is always welcomed when times are tough, the show cheered up the whole city. Standing for chic, for eroticism, for liberal code – legs for days walked down the runway, where ostrich feathers fluttered, glitter dresses sparkled, duchesse satin flowed, and boots went a-stomping. “That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun,” he said. “She’s not depressed. She wants to enjoy life!” Yes!
Enough is enough with all the despair and how shocking the news has been. For Dries Vannoten, he addresses this by saying “Let’s do something optimistic, enjoy things—and really go for it!” And he sure knows how to press all our buttons. Want that splash of color and glitter, but still reflecting calmness, dignity and self-possession? How about breaking out the prints? Some vintage crystal earrings? Who here needs some retail therapy? (Me.)
Chloe‘s Natacha Ramsay-Levi went to look at the entire history of the house, lifting it a little bit from all the past predecessors. Taking it out of the book from Karl Lagerfeld’s painted dresses – hers were made on crisp cotton, not silk. Looking to Stella McCartney ‘s liking of horses – hers were embroidered on trim velvet tailoring. Taking the sense of lightness from Claire Waight Keller – she made floaty micro-floral print dresses. Regardless, it still came out like Ramsay-Levi herself as well as the strong, sturdily-heeled figure that’s been long stamped on Paris’ fashion scene.
No more flirty jolies madames in tulles this time ‘round; nor any of those pastel colors leaving a single whiff of that at Dior‘s show this #PFWSS18. Instead, Maria Grazia Chiuri dolled up the girls in low, block-heeled Mary Janes, or black mesh knee-boots, wearing everything from the 70s patchwork jeans to leather jumpsuits to sheer dresses where undergarments were clearly visible. Definitely one to connect when talking to the “woke” generation, she went for practicality: aged-down version of Dior ready-to-wear that is ultimately intended to be accessible to millennials.@chloe
“I was looking at a photograph of my mother walking through the port one summer,” he explained. “She had a scarf around her head, and these ceramic earrings—and a pareo tied around her. She was always smiling and happy. People still stop me in the village and say, ‘Your mother? She was so beautiful!’
And that was the basis for Jacquemus‘ inspiration for the collection this #PFWSS18. Soft, draped asymmetric shapes were swathed into tulip skirts or even side-knotted, paired with plunging tops.
There was a 60s/80s youth-vibe going about; see the space-age boots and astronaut capelets? Lurex threads and crystal jewelry glinted under the sun; it was an intricate balance between natural-looking textures and advanced technical skillwork.
And with that, au revoir, Paris.
On the same positive note, let’s all turn to the healing power of nature, as did Karl Lagerfeld for @chanel this #PFW #SS18. The need for optimism and celebratory power of forward-looking fashion has been strong, fitting to how Chanel’s show has delivered in such a beautiful place where “The molecules from the water, when you breathe them in, it’s very healthy for you! It’s why you feel good in places like this” explained Karl.@thefashionheadblog
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